Bouldering at Stanage

Whilst originally made famous for its traditional climbs, the boulders that sit beneath Stanage Edge are packed with a quality and history all of their own.

For the uninitiated, the sport of bouldering is climbing generally shorter routes up the wall but without ropes or placed protection. Instead, climbers are protected by pads placed on the floor which help to catch and break a fall. Boulder problems tend to focus more on physical moves, however, you do not need to be a professional climber to give the sport a go!

If you do not have your own climbing pad then there are plenty of local shops which stock pads for hire, the Climbing Works rent them out for the day. If you are completely new to bouldering outside then we recommend you book onto a course with one of the many local outdoor adventure companies which offer introductory courses (see below).

In terms of getting out to Stanage there are a few options:

1) catch the 272 bus which runs through Hathersage - just be aware it will probably take you 45 minutes to walk up from there though

2) it's not too far to cycle to, but if you've got a lot of kit with you it might be tricky (one person could always go by car with all the kit whilst the rest of you go on two wheels?)

3) jump in a car - it's about 20 minutes from the centre of Sheffield without any traffic - just be aware that there is limited parking (which on a peach of a Saturday can get full pretty quick) and parking on verges is strictly not allowed. 

Before your day out, we recommend picking up a guidebook, options include the BMC Stanage Guidebook or Peak District Bouldering. Here is a selection of our top picks for a great first-day bouldering at Stanage…

Bullworker Get your biceps out for this one. It is short but sure packs a punch! 

Pebble Arete Finesse, balance and technical mastery in the heart of the Plantation area.

Crescent Arete Grab some friends and some pads for this absolute classic laybacking arete.

20 Foot Crack Perfect your jamming technique with this problem whose name says it all.

The Lone Slab It looks straightforward but quickly opens you up to the dark world of gritstone slab climbing wizardry!

Be responsible

With climbing becoming an increasingly popular sport, there are more people than ever at the crags. This means we all need to be responsible for preserving boulder problems for future generations to enjoy. Make sure you brush the holds and remove excess chalk, especially unsightly tick marks. Do not climb on the rock if it is damp (head to one of Sheffield’s many excellent indoor climbing walls instead) and take any rubbish home with you to keep Stanage special. Also be aware of ground nesting birds like curlews and other birds which may be nesting in the cliffs (there are often signs warning you not to climb in certain areas to protect habitats when birds have been spotted).